Karijini National Park- Pilbura, WA

From Broome, we hit the road south in what will be a long journey down the WA coast. We had a night at one of the rest stops (De Grey River) before heading inland to Karijini National Park. This was one place Chris had been looking forward to as parts of the park are 2-3 billion years old. It is an ancient place and the rock formations and gorges are great. It’s a big park so even on our ‘rest days’ we were driving a couple of hundred kilometres. Lucky the girls are coping well with the car travel. We stayed at Dales Campground, run by National Parks. It’s very quiet at the moment but I’ve heard it is absolultely packed in June/July. We visited Hammersly Gorge and had a nice swim. Finally we are out of croc country! The water was cool and refreshing and safe. It was so nice to not have to worry about crocs and tell the kids they could jump on in.


2.5 billion year old rocks

The beautiful Hammersly Gorge

Croc Free Swimming!

Caitlin excited to be here

Sami getting very good at her rock hopping

The walks in Karijini can be challenging- most are grade 4 or 5’s which usually means clambering over rocks, wading through water and sometimes going for a short swim to get to the other side. The dry bag came out for Chris’s camera a few times here! The following  day Chris, Sophia & Sam walked into Weano Gorge while Caitlin & I walked a short way in before finding a nice spot by the waterhole to wait for our walkers. Chris said the girls were great hikers and climbers, scrambling over 2.5 billion year old rocks that were twisted and sculpted over the many years before they arrived at Handrail Pool.

 

Sophia & Sam taking on the gorge

 

Next walk was Hancock Gorge. Chris and Samantha checked out that one. They were rewarded with a lovely swim at the end at Kermits Pool. The rangers we saw on the way out were impressed that Sam could manage the walk. They went as far as they could go before it became a grade 6 walk which involves ropes, a licensed guide etc. The photos are beautfiful. We really enjoyed our 3 day stay here. It’s never quite enough time to see everything so we will be back to this part of the world again to take another look. After leaving Karijini we stopped off at Tom Price, a mining town on the west side of the park. We knew this was our best chance of stocking up on supplies and filling up the water tank before heading to the coast again. After our longest day driving yet (700kms) we made it from Karijini to Coral Bay. More on that in the next post.

Sisters helping each other

Caitlin & I waiting patiently for our walkers

Sam having a swim during the Hancock Gorge walk

 

Broome

Beautiful Broome! We had briefly stopped into Broome before heading to Cape Leveque so we had an idea of the lay of the land. It is a lovely town. Basically in 2 halves about 10 minutes drive apart- the Town Centre and Cable Beach. We decided to stay at Cable Beach Caravan Park only a  few minutes walk from the beach and next door to the popular Cable Beach Resort & Spa. It was a great caravan park and lovely to be back in civilisation after a week or so of being out in the sticks. The caravan park was not busy at all but still absolutely FULL of children. The pool was lovely and huge and the people were friendly. The kids had fun chilling out and doing not much at all, hanging around the pool and small play area. A lot of around Australia travellers seem to live here during the busy winter season, presumably because there is work and the weather is great, so a lot of families had been at the park for months and it was interesting to see all the kids in the local school uniform head off to school in the morning.

Cable Beach Sunset



We ran into some friends we met at Cape Leveque on the beach. Thanks Dean & Kay for taking our photo!

 

I just love these three cherubs

sister love

My big girls

We didn’t really have a touristy time in Broome. Chris worked one day so I took the kids to Town Beach which has a water park/playground, we shopped and stocked up on groceries, I had a lovely hour or so mooching around the shops in the Town Centre by myself (lots of pearl shops and beachwear). We visited Cable Beach a few times, both during the day for a swim and in the evening  for the spectacular West Coast sunset. We ate a lovely brunch at a restaurant on the beach and during sunset, we watched the Camels parade past everyone as the sun went down. We also visited the Courthouse markets on the weekend which were fun.  I would have liked to have gone to the Sun Cinemas which are the oldest operating outdoor cinema (in the World or Australia? Can’t remember) but they didn’t have anything showing that was suitable for the kids. The only downer was a trip to the hospital emergency department at 2am with Caitlin’s asthma but she perked up as soon as we got there- back under control now we hope.  It was a great few days and somewhere I’d love to come back too. Chris and I were talking about how Broome feels similar to Park City, Utah where we met all those years ago. Meaning  it’s a small town that is easy to get around but because it is set up for tourists it has more than you would expect of a town that size, ie cinemas, shops, restaurants etc. That is where the similarity ends though as there is certainly no snow in Broome and no beach in Park City! I think Broome would be a great place to fly back too and stay somewhere fancy and have a really laid back relaxing time. One day…..

Mary's Pool to Cape Leveque

After leaving the Bungles, we knew we had some driving days ahead. There is a lot to see between the Bungles and the West Coast, but nowhere we wanted to stay more than one day so we've had a lot of one night stops which means lots of driving and lots of set up/ pack up time. But the kids are great on the driving days- they probably prefer sitting in the cool air-conditioned car all day than trekking around the countryside walking in 36 degree heat.

We have stayed at a couple of free roadside camps set up by WA Main Roads Department in the last week and they have been excellent. Nothing fancy, just a drop toilet and a nice safe place to stay to prevent people driving when they are fatigued. A lot of people, especially the grey nomads, prefer staying at these road stops rather than commercial caravan parks because it saves a fortune when you are travelling indefinitely. They are also very social places with everyone saying hello to everyone. I couldn't do it very often as I enjoy a good shower & swim, but every so often they are fine and very well maintained. We stayed at Mary's Pool Rest Area, past Halls Creek and also Nillibubbica Rest Area about 100km east of Broome. Every night a little community develops but I always look forward to checking back in to a campground with showers and preferably a pool, cafe and bar! I really don't ask for much. I can rough it with the best of them if necessary but also like a few creature comforts.

Talking of places to stay, I think the best value places are places with a wide range of accommodation options- not just camp sites. We stay in unpowered campsites, the cheapest of all options, but when we stay at places that also have cabins, villas, safari tents etc you tend to also get the resort style pools, the tennis courts (at Fitzroy Creek Lodge), the bar & restaurant- and still you are only paying $35-40/ night for 5 people. Good value in my book!

So for the last few days we have visited some awesome places, some expectedly! After leaving Fitzroy Crossing we were heading to Broome, around 4 hours drive away. We had heard good things about Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge but decided to skip them and head to the coast. Tunnel Creek sounded awesome, but we were a bit freaked out by some of the reports we had read online- a dark tunnel underground, with bats & fresh water crocs and water crossings up to waist deep. Didn't sound promising with 3 young kids. As we passed the turn off we decided we would turn back and drive to it, assess what it was like and decide whether to go in. We need not have worried- it was one of the highlights so far. There were plenty of families doing the short walk and even extended family groups coming into the tunnel for a picnic with their bags of food and esky's as it's so cool underground.  I'm sure after wet season the water gets deeper but it was only ever up to our knees and in 95% of the tunnel you could walk on the sand or rocks. It was only 750 metres long so easy for the kids. Great morning- saw 3 small freshwater crocs but they stayed out of the way of everyone ;) There is also an interesting story about Jandamarra, an Aboriginal man who hid in the tunnel for 3 years while fighting a guerrilla war against the Europeans in the 1890's.

Tunnel Creek National Park, NT

It's a very cool place (literally cool given it's underground!)

Then it was further along to Windjana Gorge, just off the Gibb River Road. We didn't walk the whole way in as it was late in the day and very hot, but we did get far enough to see that the gorge river was obviously not as full & flowing as in wet season and so all the crocs (freshies) were condensed into much smaller area. At one point, Sam counted over 100 of them- they were everywhere! We had a safe vantage point and enjoyed watching them rest in the river and on the river banks.

Crocs everywhere

Due to the detour, we didn't make it to Broome that day, but the next morning we popped into Broome and picked up supplies as well as visiting the Courthouse Markets before heading north to Cape Leveque on the tip of the Dampier Peninsula. It's a three hour drive from Broome on a corrugated dirt road- no caravans allowed. It is remote and beautiful, a brilliant example of the Western Australian coastline where the red rock meets the white sand and azure blue water.  We stayed at Kooljaman Camp for three lovely nights. Our camp site was overlooking Western Beach. Cape Leveque has two sides as it's at the top of the peninsula. The western beach has rough water and awesome sunsets and whale watching. The eastern side is protected by a bay and is good for swimming and driving on the beach and fishing. It is only a few minutes walk between both sides with all the camp sites in the middle.



Cape Leveque is very special place- and not too many people around as you can see!

Our first Aussie West Coast sunset. Never get sick of seeing this every day!

We spent the days swimming, fishing, chatting to our fellow campers and relaxing at their cafe (tip for visitors- no alcohol sold anywhere on the peninsula so BYO beer & wine) On the last day Chris, Sophia & Sam went on a fishing charter for a few hours. They had a great morning out on the water while Caitlin & I stayed around camp. They were very fortunate to not only catch some great fish but also do a bit of up close & personal whale watching as well. What an opportunity! The first thing they said to me on their return was they got covered in whale snot- meaning they got sprayed by the whale's blowhole. They were close to three adults and a baby calf who swam next to and even under their boat. Chris got some spectacular photos. I will leave you with a few of them. Next post- Broome! 

Sophia's catch. Delicious eating fish

Sami's massive catch- fresh as you can get. Yummy dinner.

good day out

Proud Sami with her fish

The Bungles

Hi everyone who is still following along! Thanks for reading. We are currently at Fitzroy River Lodge in Fitzroy Crossing, West Kimberleys, Western Australia. We had a huge day in the Bungle Bungle Range yesterday. I learnt that they are not the Bungle Bungles as I had been calling them for years- that would be a double plural. So they are either the Bungles or the Bungle Bungle.

First, a word of warning. The road into the Bungles is rough. Not technical 4WDing rough, just lots of corrugations. lots of up & down and lots of twists and turns. We averaged about 40km/hour and all the kids felt car sick. It didn't make for a particularly pleasant journey in but it was only just over an hour to the Visitor Centre at the start of the National Park. Because it was twisty, you couldn't skim over the corrugations like you can at 80km/hr. We made it and it was worth it, however next time I come back here I think I'll be doing a helicopter flight in! it was like a rollercoaster ride for over an hour that I couldn't get off and was forced to do again a few hours later.

Like I said, it was all worth it though as the Bungles are just like the photos- spectactular.

It was hard to believe that Europeans only 'discovered' them in the 1980's. We got up SUPER early as the temps have been getting into the high 30's by mid morning and that is just too hot to walk, especially with the girls and with no waterholes at the end to cool off. So at 6am we set off from Bungle Bungle Caravan Park and hit the road. We stopped off to have breakfast along the way and was at the start of the Cathedral Gorge track around 8am while it was still relatively cool. It was an amazing place and we took our time with Chris taking some great photos and the girls and I building sandcastles. A couple we had met at a few locations over the last week were there and they are talented singers who sang a beautiful Aboriginal song that reverberated around the Gorge. I recorded it on my phone but doubt I will have the bandwidth to upload it at the moment. When I get back home I will share it.

Walking into Cathedral Gorge

Cathedral Gorge

We are the tiny people in the bottom left corner!

After Cathedral Gorge, we drove to the other end of the park to take a look at Echidna Chasm. When choosing where to go, we have to realise that the girls only do well with short walks so we look at those around 2-3km return. Anymore and we end up carrying a grumpy bunch of kids and it's no fun for anyone. Thankfully,most places have plenty of great walks close to the car parks. Echidna Chasm is also only around 2km but it was getting hot by the time we arrived there, even if we did leave camp at 6am! A little way in Sophia was complaining of a headache and Caitlin needed the bathroom so we turned back to the airconditioned car while Chris & Sam continued on- the photos look great so one day I'll have to get back there in my chopper!

Echidna Chasm

Thats it from me. See you next time!