Laing family road trip: Mary's Pool to Cape Leveque

After leaving the Bungles, we knew we had some driving days ahead. There is a lot to see between the Bungles and the West Coast, but nowhere we wanted to stay more than one day so we've had a lot of one night stops which means lots of driving and lots of set up/ pack up time. But the kids are great on the driving days- they probably prefer sitting in the cool air-conditioned car all day than trekking around the countryside walking in 36 degree heat.

We have stayed at a couple of free roadside camps set up by WA Main Roads Department in the last week and they have been excellent. Nothing fancy, just a drop toilet and a nice safe place to stay to prevent people driving when they are fatigued. A lot of people, especially the grey nomads, prefer staying at these road stops rather than commercial caravan parks because it saves a fortune when you are travelling indefinitely. They are also very social places with everyone saying hello to everyone. I couldn't do it very often as I enjoy a good shower & swim, but every so often they are fine and very well maintained. We stayed at Mary's Pool Rest Area, past Halls Creek and also Nillibubbica Rest Area about 100km east of Broome. Every night a little community develops but I always look forward to checking back in to a campground with showers and preferably a pool, cafe and bar! I really don't ask for much. I can rough it with the best of them if necessary but also like a few creature comforts.

Talking of places to stay, I think the best value places are places with a wide range of accommodation options- not just camp sites. We stay in unpowered campsites, the cheapest of all options, but when we stay at places that also have cabins, villas, safari tents etc you tend to also get the resort style pools, the tennis courts (at Fitzroy Creek Lodge), the bar & restaurant- and still you are only paying $35-40/ night for 5 people. Good value in my book!

So for the last few days we have visited some awesome places, some expectedly! After leaving Fitzroy Crossing we were heading to Broome, around 4 hours drive away. We had heard good things about Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge but decided to skip them and head to the coast. Tunnel Creek sounded awesome, but we were a bit freaked out by some of the reports we had read online- a dark tunnel underground, with bats & fresh water crocs and water crossings up to waist deep. Didn't sound promising with 3 young kids. As we passed the turn off we decided we would turn back and drive to it, assess what it was like and decide whether to go in. We need not have worried- it was one of the highlights so far. There were plenty of families doing the short walk and even extended family groups coming into the tunnel for a picnic with their bags of food and esky's as it's so cool underground. I'm sure after wet season the water gets deeper but it was only ever up to our knees and in 95% of the tunnel you could walk on the sand or rocks. It was only 750 metres long so easy for the kids. Great morning- saw 3 small freshwater crocs but they stayed out of the way of everyone ;) There is also an interesting story about Jandamarra, an Aboriginal man who hid in the tunnel for 3 years while fighting a guerrilla war against the Europeans in the 1890's.

Tunnel Creek National Park, NT

It's a very cool place (literally cool given it's underground!)

Then it was further along to Windjana Gorge, just off the Gibb River Road. We didn't walk the whole way in as it was late in the day and very hot, but we did get far enough to see that the gorge river was obviously not as full & flowing as in wet season and so all the crocs (freshies) were condensed into much smaller area. At one point, Sam counted over 100 of them- they were everywhere! We had a safe vantage point and enjoyed watching them rest in the river and on the river banks.

Crocs everywhere

Due to the detour, we didn't make it to Broome that day, but the next morning we popped into Broome and picked up supplies as well as visiting the Courthouse Markets before heading north to Cape Leveque on the tip of the Dampier Peninsula. It's a three hour drive from Broome on a corrugated dirt road- no caravans allowed. It is remote and beautiful, a brilliant example of the Western Australian coastline where the red rock meets the white sand and azure blue water. We stayed at Kooljaman Camp for three lovely nights. Our camp site was overlooking Western Beach. Cape Leveque has two sides as it's at the top of the peninsula. The western beach has rough water and awesome sunsets and whale watching. The eastern side is protected by a bay and is good for swimming and driving on the beach and fishing. It is only a few minutes walk between both sides with all the camp sites in the middle.

Cape Leveque is very special place- and not too many people around as you can see!

Our first Aussie West Coast sunset. Never get sick of seeing this every day!

We spent the days swimming, fishing, chatting to our fellow campers and relaxing at their cafe (tip for visitors- no alcohol sold anywhere on the peninsula so BYO beer & wine) On the last day Chris, Sophia & Sam went on a fishing charter for a few hours. They had a great morning out on the water while Caitlin & I stayed around camp. They were very fortunate to not only catch some great fish but also do a bit of up close & personal whale watching as well. What an opportunity! The first thing they said to me on their return was they got covered in whale snot- meaning they got sprayed by the whale's blowhole. They were close to three adults and a baby calf who swam next to and even under their boat. Chris got some spectacular photos. I will leave you with a few of them. Next post- Broome!